|Due to certain things related to Fandom, I have to use a different alias, but some people may know me as Wirxaw from Ludia Forums and Discord. This compendium is based on my old guide , which is no longer editable and is generally outdated. However, this is a disclaimer that I am not an impersonator and no data has been stolen.|
|Opening notes and edit comments|
| Throughout the guide I will use the following way of describing the dragons:|
Xstar and X-star. Xstar means original dragon quality, like a 5star Toothless. X-star means trained level, like a 3-star Toothless.
Also, some abbreviations:
ATK - attack, DEF - defense, HP - health. AoE - team-wide damage\effect. DoT\HoT - Damage\healing over time.
Buff - positive effect. Debuff - negative effect.
All of the dragon data is obtained from game, wiki and Szaddaj's spreadsheet .
|A few words for the beginners|
-I would not recommend to spend scales to hatch color-specific dragons, unless a duty asks you to. In the early game, you really should save the scales and spend them to only train the dragons you are certain to keep.
-Energy is your most valuable resource. Energy is XP, XP is progress, and your goal is to hit level 16 and unlock Breedery, and then to push further for more maximum energy and Hatchery\Breedery upgrades. Failing a very difficult quest, desperately trying to beat that story level would only set you back.
-A lot of players used to ask me how to best spend their runes, and I've always given one answer: it's either gambling or convenience.
|Micromanaging duties can yield you almost 80 runes a day, among other bonuses. Always pick the Hard chest, it gives the best rewards.|
-Among the 4 duty characters, the most important ones are Hiccup and Astrid. They both give combat-related duties, so it's ideal to synchonize them so that you would get credit to both of them.
-Hiccup's "Complete 3 duties" duty is especially interesting. If you are about to complete Hiccup's duty, the next one can always be "complete 3 duties". It can't happen twice in a row, but it can happen after any other duty. If you have 6\7 of any Astrid duty, or are able to do an easy Fishleg's quest or have Valka's breeding ready - do not always instantly pick the rewards, always keep them ready to be "collected" for Hiccup's duty.
-You CAN get credit towards Astrid's "Use 35 Special Tiles" duty in Clan Alpha fights. It won't be much, and you could probably farm the tiles with low-power dragons anyway, but anything that saves energy is worthwhile.
-Daily reroll should be used primarily on Fishlegs' "Level 10 dragons" duty or "Hatch 10 eggs", depending on whether you have a shortage of fish or shells. However, if you are in a low-level location and your zone quest doesn't give enough shells\gold\fish, you could also reroll "Gather 15k gold\30k fish" duties if it takes too long until the next 4-hour resource quest.
-Always try to have around 100 shells to be able to queue them for "Hatch 10 eggs" quest. In fact, if you are about to run into the shell cap - try to shuffle through Fishlegs' duties until you, hopefully, get the 10-egg hatching duty, or at least a specific-color hatching duty.
-"Level 10 dragons" duty does NOT require you to level 10 separate dragons. In fact, the easiest way to do this duty is to feed the lowest possible dragon as few dragons as possible and only enough to level up, and do it 10 times. You can later feed this dragon to any of your higher dragons for extra experience.
|While it is a well-known fact that if you consume as many dragons at once as possible, they all will cost only as much fish per dragon as the current level requires. However, in practice - you'll be saving... scraps, and you CAN run into a max level dragon with a non-maxed ability.
This isn't the end, you can still feed your dragon without worrying about XP bar and you'll still have the same %upgrade per dragon consumed, but the cost per dragon will be locked to your maxed out dragon. In other words - it can be VERY expensive. Especially if you are missing 3-4 ability levels.
The imporant part in training dragons - is upgrade% per XP, and the highest ratio comes from consuming 1star dragons. Well, technically the highest raio comes from feeding a copy, which always gives 25% upgrade chance and costs 50% of normal fish per dragon, but copies are scarce for 1-2star dragons, they are needed for 3-star training of 3star dragons and they are almost mythical for 4-5star dragons, so I wouldn't base my methods on anything unreliable.
Obviously, you should only consume the 1star dragons of the SAME COLOR. Same color dragons give 3% for 1star, 4% for 2star, 6% for 3star, different color dragons give exactly HALF of that. Yes, that be rounded up or down when your first two 1star dragons of the different color give 2% upgrade total, and the third - 4% total.
If you feel like this method doesn't work, remember that it all comes down to RNG. You can be unlucky with most ideal training, or you can be lucky with the least ideal. The whole purpose of this method is to just... tweak the RNG in your favor, as much as it could be possible.
|Breeding and Hybrids|
|Unfortunately, nobody knows the exact breeding percentages, not even the dataminers, and the developers are mum on the subject. The only more or less confirmed thing about breeding is that it's NOT affected by training level. A freshly trained hatchling has the same breeding capabilities as a maxed out dragon.
There is a player, who wanted to research this subject further, you can check out his thread if you want.
What makes a hybrid different?
However, not all hybrids are absolutely superior, as I will explain in the further section.
|It's important to understand what the dragons do, before learning about the species and combat. In this section I will try to explain all the currently existing effects in detail. Please refer to the opening notes for any abbreviation questions.
2. Healing can be single target or AoE, instant or over-time and it be a bonus health, which I'll call "shield".
7. Accuracy debuff affects only your tiles and enemy blasts. However, accuracy debuff can prevent strong-color damage, crits and CA blasts, therefore it's a great way to reduce the potential sniping or the pressure of a 5 dragon wave.
As far as the practical value of these effects go, it should be obvious that cleansing a damage taken or accuracy debuff, removing enemy healing or counterattack - are all good measures, if the fight has them and you can time your abilities.
|While everyone starts with various combinations of dragons, whether it's normal 3-star dragons or drafted 4-5star, if you want to know what should you breed and what you shouldn't - this section is for you.
Verdict: You can breed these species freely, they are excellent at every tier.
Verdict: You can safely breed any dragons from this family, the worst that you can get is Fireshrike and Lancebeak, and even that's not too bad.
Verdict: I wouldn't breed these species at all, unless you get Valka's duty for it.
Verdict: Both parent species have dragons that are good if they are drafted, but none of them should be specifically bred for. The hybrids, despite their uniquity, are simply unreliable. Knock-Rocket takes too much to max out, when there are pefectly accessible Torch\Tripfire for the red slot. Chestnut Knight could overlap its 2 AoE effects with other dragons and its revive ability is only good when your dragons die, which isn't a good thing to begin with, and if it fails to revive when it needs to.. Well, you get the idea. These species aren't as bad as the Timberjack or Monstrous Nightmare families, but... I still wouldn't recommend breeding for them.
Verdict: Do not breed Snow Wraiths, breed Whispering Deaths instead, starting with 4star Bombwelter. And, once you get it, you can breed it and Frostfang for a wide range of dragons that could in a distant future be bred for Sawmaw\Murmurquill\Fleetsleet.
|First I'd like to try to explain ATK\DEF.|
ATK is the base value of your damage. Ability damage % is calcuated based on this number, and this number approximately accounts for 3 tiles worth of damage.
DEF works by reducing the damage of both tiles\blasts and abilities proportionally to the difference between ATK and DEF. Unfortunately I did not bother to gather concrete data, it may be updated later, but the approxiate observations from gameplay show something like this:
ATK-DEF proportion of 100%-100% would reduce the damage by ~40%. 100%-125% proprotion would reduce it by 60%+. 100%-150%< will reduce it by 75% and more. 125-100% would reduce the damage by ~25-30%. 150%-100% would reduce the damage only by 10% or less.
In other words, all this means that if you used a ~400 power dragon against a ~800 power dragon, it would deal about 20 damage per tile instead of 40. And, in turn, if you fought a 1300+ dragon with your 900 dragon, instead of ~90 damage per tile, it would deal only around 50.
ATK\DEF are also two of the four parameters defining the total power value of your dragon, the other being ability level and HP. Obviously ability level caps at 10, and ATK\DEF caps out when your dragon is max trained\max leveled. However, HP can further be scaled up by enemy dragons. Normally you can't see enemy stats beyond HP, total power, ability level and star training, but, for most of the game, these should be enough to distinguish what you are dealing with.
Alphas deserve their own section, and so does team optimization, so I'll conclude this section with a deeper overview of standard battles.
The standard battles can further be separated into: early game, midgame, endgame and deep endgame:
-The Early Game is the period when you have 1-3star dragons with "whatever you have" kinds of abilities. Most of this period can as well be auto-matched to save time. Usually it goes to about 3000 team power.
-The Midgame picks up after 3000, this is where you start facing 3-4star dragons, where enemies can start blocking your abilities, preventing healing and more. Obviously, to counteract that, you need to optimize your team, and, once you are done - you can fight enemies even above your power level. This period goes to about 5000 power, because that's where 3star dragons max out.
-The Endgame begins when you are physically required to have 4-5star dragon ATK\DEF stats, that's usually happens beyond 5000. 4-5star dragons also offer new tactical possibilities, more ability effects and combinations.
-The Deep Endgame is, for now, present only in Story Mode. The Deep Endgame can stretch a dragon's HP to any amount, and therefore adjust its power. The idea of Deep Endgame is that you should have enough defensive measures to survive the stretched-out waves, to single out enemy dragons and defeat them one by one. Normally you would leave the last dragon of a wave, heal up, then be ready for the next wave. But the Deep Endgame requires you to put the effort of multiple waves within the same wave. And, obviously, if you don't prepare for the next wave - the first wave will be your last.
|This section is currently in development|